Imagine you’re hanging out in the heart of Memphis in
want of an adult beverage and maybe a bite to eat, but you’re burnt out on
Beale Street and barbecue. Where do you
go?
For my money – and thirst – I’m walking a few blocks
south on Main Street until I reach the Green Beetle.
First established in 1939, the Green Beetle claims to be
the oldest tavern in Memphis, and it certainly looks the part. (I say that endearingly, of course.) Before long, everyone who was anybody was
going there to hang out. But as the
decades dragged on, like so many similar taverns, the Green Beetle apparently
slowly transitioned from trendy hangout to classic dive bar. Since 2011, the Green Beetle has been back in
the hands of the original family who owned it, and from my brief experience
there I think it’s safe to say the place has its groove back.
Its location about halfway between Beale Street and the
National Civil Rights Museum makes the Green Beetle a perfect spot to get away from
the often overcrowded and always overpriced tourist traps on Beale. It’s easily walkable, but it’s also easily
accessible via the Main Street trolley line.
You’re sure to notice the green awning, the big beetle on the wall and people
mingling at the chairs and tables outside the entrance.
Once you step inside, the Green Beetle’s dive bar charm
becomes even more apparent. What you see
is what you get, an interior that’s long and narrow and not laid out to
accommodate huge crowds, and that’s OK by me.
The bar at the end of the walk caps off the Green Beetle’s
dive bar credentials. The bar boasts
more than 50 brands of beer, and somehow most are in that refrigerator. The selection of nearby craft brews is downright
impressive (as is the artwork above the cooler), but a first-time dive bar
visit usually calls for a classic macro brew …
… like, in Punky’s case, a Miller High Life tall boy.
Or a Yeungling bottle, which is almost mandatory for me whenever
I visit Memphis. Seriously, when are
they going to start selling Yeungling in Illinois?
Having been intrigued by the sign out front, I also had
to try a bushwacker (that’s how they spell it), and it turned out to be quite
good. I’d compare it to a more
over-the-top version of a frozen Irish coffee made with rum instead of whiskey. Needless to say, it was easy drinking to the
point of being a little dangerous.
While we enjoyed a couple of rounds at the bar, we
started chatting with a local couple sitting next to us and became fast friends
sharing our love for New Orleans, Clarksdale, Miss., and the blues, as well as Punky’s
aversion to anything casino-related in Tunica, Miss. That’s another thing I love about the really
good dive bars … you’re never a stranger for too long, and the customers define
the experience as much as any other factor.
We also watched a steady procession of food orders stream
out of the kitchen, especially for a mid-afternoon. We didn’t eat, but everything we saw looked
tempting, particularly their burgers. In
a downtown where you’re competing with Dyers and Huey’s, for the Green Beetle
to be known for its burgers says a lot. But
I wouldn’t overlook their appetizers and other sandwiches and plate dinners,
either. It’s an excellent tavern
menu.
If you really want a sense of where the locals in Memphis
go to chill and have a good time, the Green Beetle seems to me the perfect
place to start. It’s one of many gems in
the South Main neighborhood that are underappreciated by most tourists. But do yourself a favor before you go anywhere else: find the building
adorned by the big bug and crawl back in time in the oldest bar in Memphis.
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