If there’s one lesson I’ve learned about barbecue in my
travels as a commoner, it’s that if you look hard enough you can find quality
‘que just about anywhere. That includes
the middle of Iowa.
How did I find such good barbecue in an area more known
for its pork tenderloins and loose meat sandwiches?
It started when I had apparently exhausted
all my dining options in the small town of Grinnell while I was working on
assignment there, I learned of a barbecue joint in nearby Newton, just a couple
of exits west on Interstate 80.
I gave
Moo’s BBQ a shot, and the experience highly rewarding.
To find
Moo’s BBQ, go north at Exit 164 I-80 toward
town.
Take the first right and follow
the frontage road back south.
You’ll
find Moo’s nestled among several standard fast food and chain restaurant options,
inhabiting a building that probably was another of those fast food chains in a
former life.
Fortunately, the food
served at Moo’s is a vast improvement.
The interior is just as no-frills, but as you approach
the counter the vibe and personality of Moo’s starts to become more
apparent.
Notice the blues concert
posters to the left of the menu and the chalkboard promoting Moo’s “Artist of
the Day” whose music you will hear during your entire visit.
Now it becomes more evident why the place is
sometimes referred to as
Moo’s BBQ & Blues.
I knew I had stumbled onto a place very much to my liking.
The menu has plenty of tempting options, from signature
sandwiches like the “Barnyard” and the “Taj Moohal” to fried flatbread tacos
and Moo’s take on BBQ nachos. But since
I was eager to sample as much as possible, I ordered a two meat platter with
two sides. Upon completing my order, I
learned of another quirky but charming feature of Moo’s – instead of a number
with your order, you’re assigned a moniker to listen for. I was Hercules. I could have done far worse.
The seating options are again very similar to a
refurbished fast food joint except for the long counter window side seating,
perfect for solo diners. I parked myself
at one of the seats and waited for my herculean sized order.
And here it is – beef brisket and burnt ends, served with
smoked green beans and creamed corn. As
fate would have it, Moo’s is known locally for having exceptional versions of
both meats I ordered, and I quickly understood why.
Although the burnt ends were a little fattier than I’m
accustomed to having in, say, Kansas City-style burnt ends, these compared
quite well. It didn’t hurt that they
were literally wading in their own juices when served. The composition of the burnt ends was more
reminiscent of roast beef, and that’s not a bad thing at all.
Now let’s have a closer look at the brisket. See that pink ring that comes from being slow
smoked? Moo’s reportedly uses a
combination of hickory and cherry wood, and the juicy flavor it provides is
about as good as it gets. If you can’t
get to Texas, you won’t be disappointed with Moo’s take on beef brisket. It’s that good.
To complement the barbecue, Moo’s offers two styles of
sauce on the table. The sweet blues sauce is very true to its name and adds a
nice tanginess to the meat’s smokiness. The hot sauce starts similarly sweet
but with a slightly more vinegar taste before a peppery explosion hits the back
of your throat. Most fans of spicy foods
should approve of the latter.
As with any good barbecue joint, the sides are
noteworthy, too. The aforementioned
green beans are flavored with the same smoke as the meat and come practically
swimming in butter. The creamed corn
definitely emphasizes the cream; the texture of the dish is more like a thick,
whipped corn pudding. And one final
positive note about the entire meal – Moo’s provides generous portions of
everything!
All in all,
Moo’s BBQ was a real find in central Iowa and
a pleasant reminder that really good barbecue isn’t confined to any particular
region.
There’s practically a barbecue
master everywhere you go if you look hard enough.
In Iowa, they’ve mastered it at Moo’s.
