If there ever was a place I’ve found in my travels that could
be described as having a bohemian-style identity crisis – but in a very good
way – it had to be Phat Bites. Located
behind an Ace Hardware of all things in Nashville’s suburb of Donelson near the
airport and close to where I worked for a couple of months, Phat Bites is part
deli, part coffee house, and – later in the evening – part dive bar and local
music venue. Somehow, though, it all
blends wonderfully together.
It was that odd mishmash of identities that drew me –
like so many of their regulars, I suppose – to Phat Bites repeatedly, whether
it be for a lunch that was a little out of the ordinary or to serve as a
watering hole close to my hotel. Indeed,
the main dining area, which quite literally was carved out of the service bays
of an old garage, always seemed to stay busy.
Just beyond the table seating, a small sampling of sofas
and chairs provide more casual seating in front of a stage where bands perform
later at night.
And if the atmosphere of a graffiti-lined service station
wasn’t enough of a statement already, Phat Bites has a deli menu that’s just as
eccentric … and popular with its customer base.
Between the signature salads, build-your-own salad plates
(a popular way for me to get creative yet stay healthy with my lunch) wraps,
sandwiches, soups and flavored hummus, everyone from your hippie vegetarians
to your meat-loving good ole boys can find something satisfying. The creative – bordering on provocative – names
of some of the menu items only add to the intrigue.
This winning combination of good eats and groovy
surroundings also helped Phat Bites get noticed by the Food Network’s “Diners Drive-Ins and Dives” crew. Apparently,
Guy Fieri was very fond of the Big Jerk sandwich (yes, I’m fairly sure it was
named long before Guy Fieri tried it), which is their take on Jamaican jerk
pork.
My favorite meal from Phat Bites turned out to be the
morphine wrap. It’s a food coma-inducing
combination of sirloin beef, portabella mushrooms, Swiss cheese, lettuce and
sun dried tomatoes, dressed with Dijon mustard, pesto mayonnaise and Italian
dressing on varying layers. It’s easy to
understand why it’s a crowd pleaser.
On the side, I added a cup of their chicken enchilada
soup. The broth was nice and savory, and
it paired well with an ample portion of shredded chicken and big chunks of
celery and carrots.
Oddly enough, the most memorable part of the meal may
have been the pickle. I may be totally
wrong, but I’d guess they’re mad on-site.
This serving had an almost fizzy aftertaste to each crunchy bite – very unusual
but packing a nice, strong zing.
As I ate, I couldn’t help but notice the steady stream of
business at the coffee bar. In fact, a
lot of people seemed to be coming here just for the coffee, despite the later
hours. I took this (along with their
reviews) as evidence that this must be a notch above your average Starbucks.
If I had been there earlier in the day, I surely would
have tried a cup; however, I was more interested in a different type of
nightcap. For that, I headed to the backroom
bar (or side room, depending on your sense of direction).
And I thought the deli and coffee area was funky … I’ve
seen bars ceiling to floor with eclectic décor, but this one takes the cake. Fortunately, it was still early for the bar
crowd there, so I got my pick of where to sit at the bar to take it all
in. Before I knew it, the bartender had
befriended me, and she was sharing her homemade ghost pepper dip with me. I think she was amused that I wanted to take
pictures of the place, and impressed that I could handle the dip.
This seating area was at opposite ends from where I
sat. I think they were going for that 1970s
stoner basement apartment look.
I’m not sure if there’s a story behind the mannequin standing
guard at the bar’s entranceway. I did
like her somewhat provocative dress, though.
Behind me was another transformed garage door entrance,
no longer in use except to shine a little light into the place from the parking
lot.
The liquor selection wasn’t large, but all of the basics
were represented. That’s apparently not
the real draw here anyway.
The limited yet intriguing selection of local and craft
beers, however, is sure to get most hipsters’ attention. I quickly realized this was not the place to
casually order a Natty Light.
Fortunately, the bartender quickly sized up my natural
aversion toward most things hoppy and recommended a Basil Ryemen saison. As the name implies, you can taste a lot of
rye, which is complemented by hints locally grown basil. Overall, a very impressive farmhouse-style
ale!
As I enjoyed my beer, I couldn’t help but be distracted
by what appeared to be a fruit juice dispenser on the bar and what appeared to
be a list of ingredients behind it. Sure
enough, Phat Bites blends their own fruit juice mixers using fresh locally
grown ingredients for pairing with your favorite liquor. Looking at the day’s blend, I asked for a
glass mixed with rum. It was even more
impressive than the beer. The honeydew
and grapefruit flavors really stood out and balanced very well with the
bartender’s rum of choice.
As I complimented the bartender on the freshest rum drink
I’d had in some time, she recommended I also try the bar’s own locally made
Phat Beer on tap. For $2, why not? It was an easy drinking pilsner and easy on
the wallet.
Almost everything about Phat Bites is fun and funky, even
a trip to their bathroom, although I have to agree with some of the online reviews that the counter service can be sketchy at times. That said, you’ll be rewarded for your patience
with quality food and drink. It’s worth the
trip out to Donelson if you’re hungry or thirsty in the Nashville area.
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