I've been meaning to share some memories from my recent road
trip to Louisiana and Mississippi (notably Vicksburg) with the Young
Curmudgeon. I had promised such a trip
to him for his high school graduation present, and it delivered countless
memories and father-son bonding moments.
Of course, long hours on the road produce varying levels
of boredom while on the interstate. I
usually much prefer the roads less traveled, but sometimes you have to acquiesce
to time constraints if you want to maximize your time at any given
location. Still, those stops along the
way, mundane as they may seem at the time, can yield some interesting memories.
Fortunately, our itinerary took us off I-55 occasionally, and the way back kept us on U.S. Highway 61 (aka “The Blues Highway”) throughout Mississippi, so we didn’t have to see too much of the same thing twice. Plus, we actually got to go through a small town or two that had yet to be bypassed by the modern highway system. That’s where you discover the real America.
Anyway, to the point of this blog entry, here are some of
the things that stood out to me while on the road.
The people at the Mississippi Welcome Center on southbound
I-55 are, in fact, quite welcoming; however, you’re basically out of luck if one
of its vending machines steals your money.
Honestly, who is going to go out of the way to call the vendor’s number –
which isn't toll-free – and request their $1.50 back? And you may or may not get it mailed to you
in six weeks. That didn't leave a very
good impression.
On the other hand, I will go out of my way to stock up on
Faygo at the next convenience store/gas station break. Peach soda is great for washing down a Chick-o-Stick. Of course, you can feel your teeth rotting while
you enjoy both …
Back to the Welcome Center – and this was a recurring
theme throughout the trip – I know the gun-happy mentality of the South, but do
you really have to remind people where it’s just inappropriate to bring your
weapons? Fortunately, the Young
Curmudgeon left his Smith and Wesson at home.
A roadside rest area is one thing, but my old grade
school? Seriously?
Now, with a local juke joint I understand the need to
make a point.
Before my most recent drive west on U.S.90 into the heart
of Cajun country, I had forgotten how prevalent the sugarcane fields were in
the area. In some places, they literally
go on for as far as you can see.
You also don’t truly realize how much seafood is a way of
life in Louisiana until you see the signs for live and boiled shrimp and crawfish
for sale every half mile on U.S. 90.
You want to know where to get the best boudin sausage? Find a carry-out seafood joint within a
rundown convenience store. I got a
crawfish boudin for $2.49 at Paul’s Seafood inside the Chevron station in
Bogalusa, La., that was phenomenal. I
ate it in the parking lot.
If there's one place you can probably trust to have good cracklins, I'm guessing Fatty's Cracklins in Woodville, Miss., would be the place.
If there's one place you can probably trust to have good cracklins, I'm guessing Fatty's Cracklins in Woodville, Miss., would be the place.
The modern U.S. 61 bypasses way too many great small
towns in Mississippi, like Bobo, Cary, Mound Bayou, Alligator and
Hollywood. Someday, I plan to devote an
entire trip to following the Mississippi Blues Trail and really exploring these
great places.
If you’re headed northbound on U.S. 61 (or U.S. 49 for
that matter) and you want to know where the all the pine tree-topped hill
country ends and the delta begins, you’ll know the moment you cross the Yazoo
River.
I mentioned the seafood stands. Nothing beats the fruit and vegetable stands
for the freshest of fresh produce. If
you haven’t had Creole tomatoes, you need to try them.
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